January up north was not nearly as frigid as I had imagined. And in fact, for about a week of my trip it was actually colder in Toronto! The weather was beautiful for much longer periods than I had expected in Cape Dorset, where the nearby open water tends to cause overcast conditions. It was clear, cool, and calm for nearly the whole trip (although a major blizzard hit right after I left).

On my first day in Cape Dorset I was excited to get my new parka, made by Eliyah Mangitak, Mangitak Kellypalik’s wife, both of whom we have interviewed on past trips.  On the second day of the trip, as we were at their house visiting and having tea, it was so worrisome to see Mangitak come home unexpectedly early from a hunting trip. His snowmobile had gone through the ice, and he into the water! Luckily he had help soon after, and was pulled from the frigid waters and driven straight home, his clothes already beginning to freeze solid. I was there with Black, who was helping us to visit (my Inuktitut still coming along very slowly!!), and in this case he was able to interpret the scary story as Mangitak was trying to warm up. It was quite a glimpse of the dangerous reality of any sea ice travel, no matter how experienced and knowledgeable you are. Luckily he was ok, but he lost all his hunting equipment, including his snowmobile (which had been tied to the ice because the other hunters planned to go back the next day when the ice was thick enough to pull it out of the water - but it ended up being knocked away by a polar bear overnight).

Two sea ice trips of my own were among the highlights of the trip – as well as a source of anxiety as I always have that “what if” in the back of my mind. Luckily for us, both trips went very well, albeit extremely cold. The first trip we (Black and I) were taken by Atsiaq Alasuaq to the floe edge, northeast of the island of Cape Dorset. On the way out we saw a few foxes on the ice, a huge iceberg where we later got some water to bring home, and a whole variety of ice conditions. We stopped quite close to the water, and an incredible mist was thickly hovering over the water, making the sun blurry and the atmosphere ethereal. Another hunter was poised on some ice-covered rocks picking seaweed to bring back to town – which looked incredibly cold on the hands but didn’t seem to bother him. I actually managed to find a vigorous arm waving technique that keeps my hands toasty (temporarily, until I took more pictures and they would freeze again) so it helped to go through those hot and cold cycles, instead of just pure cold. And just walking around kept my feet from going completely numb. There were many incredible photo opportunities, and a great trip was topped off with the experience of checking seal nets on the way back to town – although no seals were caught.

The second of the sea ice trips was west of the island of Cape Dorset, this time to a polynya where again a soft mist hovered over the open water, making it hard to see very far. Although the outside temperature was colder than the other trip (around -30 degrees C), we didn’t drive as much this trip, and there wasn’t much wind so I actually felt warmer because I could walk around more. Two other hunters met up with us (Black, another well respected local hunter, and I), and were intent on seal hunting. I was fortunate to be able to watch as they prepared, and also as a seal popped up in the water quite a few times. After several missed shots they were successful! It was amazing to see how they retrieve the seal in a small boat – launched off the thin ice edge into very cold waters with strong currents, where they have to race to get the seal before the currents take it under the ice. I had never witnessed a successful seal hunt, so it was a great experience to see one of the key uses of the sea ice – seal hunting. After watching the process of dividing up the meat, and a much needed tea time, we saw the very southern tip of the island of Cape Dorset, and were near the open water of Hudson Strait. As the winds picked up we headed home before chancing the ice breaking off.

Interviews were few on this trip, which was anticipated as I was mainly trying to catch up with the remaining key people that we hadn’t yet interviewed, or who we hoped to follow up with. Also this trip, I managed (with Black’s help) to arrange a focus group to go through some of the many sea ice pictures I’ve taken. It was fascinating to see three elders together (Mangitak Kellypalik, Atsiaq Alasuaq, and Paulassie Pootoogook), and the dynamics of their discussion. It went very well, as they sorted through nearly all the pictures, and had interesting discussions about the terminology. That was the purpose of the group, to link Inuktitut terminology to visual representations to ensure that I don’t make mistakes, but also in the end to provide a learning tool for youth or a communication tool for scientists. I was also able to spend time revising interview transcripts (the ones I have completed at this point) and much of the terminology/spellings with Black, to ensure as much consistency and accuracy as possible.

Around town, I was lucky to have decided to go for a walk with a neighbour on the first Sunday afternoon, because we happened upon a community feast as we passed by the Community Hall. We decided to check it out, and it was an amazing experience with so many people and so much food. I happily ate my favorites, caribou and char, but unfortunately didn’t get to try walrus. It was my first time at a feast, and it was an incredible feeling of community, happiness, and uneasiness – as I wasn’t sure if or how I fit in. However, we got to sit with the kind and friendly family of the woman I was staying with, and they answered our many questions and even got us plates of food (since we were way at the back of the line!!).

So, all in all another adventurous, challenging, and interesting trip. I certainly agree that the practical learning is the best, but admit that it is the hardest one for me to undertake.